Deshaies, Guadeloupe

A hike in the riverbed of "Rivière Salée" in Deshaies.

Tatum, Dennis, Holden & Wendy

The Indian River - Dominica

In Portsmouth, we explored the Indian River with Providence by row boat early in the morning.  This mangrove-lined river is a mixture of sea and salt water in the coastal wetlands of a forest reserve.  Some scenes of the Pirates of the Caribbean 2 were shot there.

 

Dominica, the Nature Island par excellence

Still with our buddy boat, s/v Felina, who preceded us by one day, we are discovering Dominica.  From Roseau, the capital city, on a day when the monster cruise ships are not in town, we went for an island tour with our guide Sea Cat and his 12-year old daughter Amber who got along great with our 4 kids. They took us to the Middleham Falls, after a long hike that criss-crosses rivers and the rainforest. Then we headed for the Titou Gorges in which you swim into the deep narrow gorge and disappear into the darkness heading up to a bracing pool and cascading waterfall further up stream.  Then we had again an excellent creole lunch at a local restaurant by a scenic river.  Then we drove to the Trafalgar Falls and hiked up gigantic boulders to the cascading pools of the twin falls.  Then further down stream we relaxed into soothing natural hot water pool.  Finally, we saw sulphur springs. A memorable day.

Hiking to Middleham Falls

Trafalgar Falls

Next to Titou Gorge

Entrance of Titou Gorge

Swimming through the Titou Gorge

More photos to come.

Martinique

Agave downwind sailing past Diamond Rock to round up the leeward coast of Martinique

Martinique:  stocked up on nice pates, cheese and wines.  Both Agave and Felina spent a few days just doing boat repairs.  Then it was all good times at the beach, beautiful anchorages, hikes, and a visit to the Depaz distillerie in St Pierre.  It is located amidst gorgeous grounds, sugar cane fields all around, abundant lush vegetation on dramatic cliffs, view of the sea and set against the volcano, Mt Pelée as a brackdrop - just breathtaking.  We also had a delicious creole lunch at their Le Moulin à Cannes restaurant - worth the hike up from St Pierre.

St Pierre was the the commercial, social, and cultural capital of the Caribbean at the turn of the 20th century with a population of 30,000 - the "Paris of the Caribbean".  On May 8, 1902 volcanic eruptions eradicated the entire town with a lava, boiling gases and rocks killing everyone but 2: a cobbler and the famous Cyparis, imprisoned for murder in a stone cell.  Many ruins still remain as post-disaster buildings have been built incorporating the old structures.

Petite Anse d'Arlet - on a walk to Grande Anse d'Arlet

Petite Anse d'Arlet

 

s/v Felina & s/v Agave at Anse d'Arlet

St Pierre with Mt Pelée

St Pierre after 1902 eruption

St Pierre

Arriving in Martinique and... running aground!

It is hard to post as the internet connections are rare and weak.

So where to start - it's been awhile?  Well we left Rodney Bay, St Lucia a bit late as Sayan was not well.  We sailed across the channel and got to Le Marin, a crowded anchorage.  As we were ready to drop the anchor, Sayan finds out the windlass (which bring the anchor chain up and down) is not responding.  A quick check: it is not the fuse; resetting it does not work.  So fairly fast since there is not too much space between the boats, we decide to go and find a mooring ball to tie up to. A few weeks earlier, Avi had observed a boat navigating a crowded anchorage where the skipper, a woman, was standing up next to her helm, and turning the helm with her foot while she had a better vantage view of the anchorage standing erect.  Avi thought that was really cool.  So here he is in this anchorage doing the exact same thing, and discussing with me (at the bow) as to which mooring ball to aim for... well the downside to this navigation-by-the-foot technique is that you don't look at your charplotter/gps, and, guess what.... sure enough we ran aground !! right in the middle of one of the most crowded anchorage!  It was too late in the afternoon to have a good light to read the bottom... and here we are stuck in 2.5 feet of water thankfully in very soft mud.  So one hour later, in the dark, and 320 euros poorer, we got unstuck by a tow boat and got ourselves moored feeling as sheepish as one can be.  Thankfully the sailors have all these saying about running aground to make one feel better: "if you haven't run aground, you are not adventuring enough"," if you haven't run aground, you either do not go out much or you're lying," etc..  And above all, there was no damage to the boat, phew!

We finished the evening on our buddy boat Felina who cooked us a nice meal to cheer us up, and laughing about it all!  Thanks Wendy!

Our Search&Rescue boat - though they did not have to search anywhere - we were almost under their nose!

Getting around in Le Marin marina...

Kids playing while parents are doing boat work

Adventures with Buddy Boat s/v Felina

In Mayreau, we met this fun family from Washington State cruising on their cat a Lagoon 450 s/v Felina. Since then we meet along the way in anchorages or harbours, and make it a point to having the best of time together - parents and kids alike.

Tatum, Sayan, Holden, and Kehan

Exploring Pigeon Island Fort on St Lucia used during the battles between the French and the British - 18th century.

From the fort, a lovely view of Rodney Bay - St Lucia

 

On Mayreau island

 

on s/v Felina

On board: we goof off, play, and work?!...

Captain fell asleep waiting for his passengers who went shopping/provisioning

Doing dishes